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Application Instructions
Hull Types: GRP, Alloy, Steel, Ferro, Timber / Clad
If you have purchased only one or two slipway kits, it is recommended that
you use Mohair rollers to apply products. Rollers provide the fastest and
easiest application with the least wastage.
Application of basecoat with spray equipment is not recommended.
Application of topcoat by spray, especially with industrial airless
equipment, requires a large volume of product to operate. Recommended minimum
amount of product for airless spray is 4 kits (20ltrs).
What you will need in addition to ULTRAGLIDE Marine slipway kit-
60 & 80grit Alum oxide abrasive paper or similar
Mohair rollers x 2 (one for basecoat and one for topcoat), brushes.
Uncontaminated clean rags. Masking tape.
Time to complete!
Job Staging, Basecoat pot life is short!-
Be advised that if you mix a complete 4ltr kit of ULTRAGLIDE Marine Basecoat,
pot life is 30 minutes at 21oC - this means you will have to
cover 20-25 m2 in 30 minutes or less. Plan your job according to your local
conditions and hull size with the required number of people to assist or mix a
smaller amount of basecoat. See proportioning directions
If temperatures exceed 21oC pot life can be much less. Small amounts of heat
are generated by the normal curing in the 4ltr can.
(TIP) You can extend the pot life by spreading the product into roller
trays immediately after mixing.
Hull-
1. Vessels with previous traditional anti foul applied - for best result abrasive blast all previous
anti-foul from hull, or remove any
loose, flaky, chalky anti foul with a abrading with 40-grit
paper using a random orbital sander. Well bonded anti foul only requires abrading.
Using a random orbital electric or air sander makes this job much easier.
Make the surface as sound as possible. Key all surfaces up well! If previous
anti foul is loose on the surface, any subsequent coating will bond only as well
as what is directly on the hull surface already.
If you are applying onto a new hull surface ensure gloss is removed from
primer or gel coat with 80grit paper
2. Wipe abraded surface using uncontaminated rags, dampened with Basecoat
solvent to remove any dust remaining on the surface. Apply masking tape to
waterline and required areas now.
3. Mix (see proportioning directions) and apply Basecoat by mohair roller
(quickest) in a smooth, even, thin coat, by brush (slowest).
Coverage at 100microns is excellent, so don’t put too much on.
Any drips or runs will need to be sanded down later. If you are uncertain how
to apply basecoat then proportion out & mix a small amount of basecoat and do a
small test area.
TIP- If you have put too much product on and drips or runs occour, you may
use the roller or brush to work with the basecoat to smooth out irregularities
right up until it goes off hard.
Allow basecoat to gel, this depends upon temperature, @ 21o C 3 - 4 hrs
should be enough.
Use the thumbnail test. If you can just imprint your thumbnail into the
basecoat then it will be hard enough to proceed to the next step. If masking
tape was used on the waterline etc it is advisable to remove any masking tape
prior to gel as it will be difficult to remove when the basecoat is hard.
4. Lightly sand basecoat with 80-grit paper to key the surface. It is not
necessary to remove all gloss just a good light sand over. Any drips or runs can
be sanded down if required. This will provide an additional mechanical bond for
the topcoat. If you have left the basecoat to harden for more than 12hrs it is
recommended to rub basecoat with 120 grit paper to remove the gloss. If you have
sanded through any basecoat, go back to step 3 before proceeding.
5. Wipe abraded surface using uncontaminated rags, dampened with Topcoat
solvent to remove any dust.
6. Apply 2 thick coats of Topcoat to hull surfaces consecutively by mohair
roller or brush. Put as much per coat as you can, without it dripping or running.
Overcoat window 5 mins minimum 15 mins maximum.
Subsequent coats will re-activate previous coat, ensuring topcoat becomes one
homogenous layer.
Allow 24hrs before immersion.
Running Gear -Bronze Props, Rudders, Shafts & Alloy Legs
1. Running gear requires more coating thickness than the hull due to
impact from debris, wear and tear and angles of impingement in the water.
2. Preparation for metal to ensure longevity of coatings on these
surfaces is critical.
3. Ensure there are no sharp corners on prop leading or trailing edges,
i.e. radius edges 0.5-1mm. This prevents edge effect or thinning of coating on
critical edges.
4. For best results abrasive blast all parts with 1mm grit to class 2.5
to remove all previous anti foul and corrosion.
If abrasive blasting is impractical use a 60 grit flexible disc on an angle
grinder or random orbital, this is the minimum acceptable but not as good as
abrasive blast cleaning
5. Solvent wipe or flush down with basecoat solvent to remove surface
contaminants
6. Proportion off as required some basecoat. Mix basecoat thoroughly 3:1
with hardener.
Apply 2-3 coats of basecoat. Wait for gel between coats, if completely hard
just key up lightly with 80 grit paper. 400microns DFT (Dry Film Thickness) is
recommended (1000microns = 1mm)
Allow to harden and abrade with 80grit paper then solvent wipe to remove dust
from surface.
7. Apply 3-4 coats of topcoat for 250-300microns DFT.
Allow 24 hrs before immersion.
To Proportion Basecoat (if required)
- Mix 3 Parts "A" to 1 part "B" by volume - Compete pack is 3ltrs "A" to 1 ltr
"B" i.e. 4 ltrs total.
- Do not add thinners to any product, use directly as supplied.
- @21oC Pot life is 30 minutes.
- Cleanup basecoat brushes, rollers immediately on
completion of application with basecoat cleanup solvent, as product will harden
and will have to be abraded off.
- Cleanup topcoat equipment with topcoat thinners only.
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